What’s Noma in Copenhagen really like?

1. Moss

Festively named after its cervine habitat, the reindeer moss is deep fried to a texture so brittle, it was difficult to hold without it crumbling. Sprinkled with cep dust, it tasted of a salty, earthy forest.

2. Coconuts

The Nordic banquet opened with these rather comical looking kohlrabis. The inside had been hollowed out and a dry refreshing juice had been poured inside. Described as a “Nordic Coconut”, our waitress encouraged us to drink the liquid through the twig straw; none of that stuffy fine dining army of cutlery here.

3. Pancakes

Nothing is as it seems at Noma and that is particularly true of their adaptation of Æbleskiver, normally a traditional Danish spherical apple pancake. The apple was swapped for bitter steamed green veg and the ball was painted in an Unami grasshopper glaze and sweetened with bee larvae. Absolutely delicious, the savoury hoppy insect literally making our mouths water, MSG style. Their secret? Noma don’t let on about the bugs until it’s all gobbled up.

4. Poached eggs

Noma do playful, theatrical presentation without being tacky – and this course was a real show-off. Hidden inside a larger egg shell on a bed of hay were two poached and pickled quail’s eggs. The lifting of the egg’s lid was followed a smoky, woody waft. “Just pop them in your mouth whole,” said our waitress. We obeyed and the white burst, oozing a thick flood of savoury yoke.

5. Ants

A blueberry, avocado and ant sorbet sandwich: the formicine addition wasn’t mentioned until we were given the list of ingredients with our bill; so sneaky. A deep purple sorbet was sweet and smooth, sandwiched in between wafer thin “bread” that was salty and tangy, each one slotted into a beautifully crafted origami envelope. On the side was a bowl of nasturtium leaves to be placed on the tongue after each bite of the sorbet sarnie, their lemony flavour enhancing the tart pud.

For more info on Noma and booking a table head here.